Going Back in Time--Hawaii 2020, part 3

Wilder Road

We got off the main highway on Kaumana Drive and turned onto Wilder Drive about two miles from Hilo. There we saw the house that we lived in all those years ago. Considering it is the same age as the house I live in today, it was newly renovated.

our house in 1979

 

The house today

Marc in front of house

 When we lived in our house, there were sacred “ti” plants on the four corners, to keep the evil spirits out.

We had a small, untidy hedge consisting of poinsettia plants facing the road. The front yard was predominantly black lava rocks with various piles of lava representing mountains, rivers, etc.

We had “hapu’u” or tree ferns were about the yard, with Ed planting a row of them on the right side of the house and various small climbing orchids growing on it.

The backyard was a shallow layer of dirt planted in grass, over lava. Frogs loved to hide in

Marc on top of the pile of dirt while we made a back yard

the pockets of water in the backyard, and I recall turning on the back-patio light one night and watched the frogs jump in the yard. It wasn’t an ideal backyard to play football in, so Ed ordered a huge pile of dirt, leveled it out planted grass that made a real back yard.

The inside of the house had a dining room, three bedrooms, a kitchen, and two bathrooms. The master bedroom had in addition to an attaching bathroom, a dressing room with a mirror and a seat to sit and do your makeup. I loved the dressing room and when Ed and I finally retired from the military and built our home in Centerville, Ed remodeled the house and made me a dressing room (with a seat) as part of my bedroom.

Our subdivision was the last built on the side of the mountain and there was only jungle across the street from us. Marc and the other kids used to play in the jungle. I would go and yell, and they would hear me and come out. They were very familiar with the dangers of the jungle (bobby-trapped marijuana fields) and knew not to go near them.

Hilo

Hilo, itself hadn’t changed much. Walking along downtown I was reminded that we were all

in tsunami territory. There was a terrible tsunami in 1946 that totally wiped out Hilo and Lau pahoehoe (which we’ll go to next). One of the reasons for being hit so hard was the bay in Hilo. It channeled the wave to become narrower and higher. I recalled years ago when we lived in Hawaii, we were in the downtown bay area (which does not have a lot of buildings) and the tsunami-warning horns blared. I didn’t know what to do and the kids kept running around. A uniformed man came and told us that in was just a warning, but if it had been real, we’d all have died because we didn’t head for high land.

We ate at a place called “Lucy’s Taqueria” and had Mexican food. I had the hugest burrito I’ve ever seen. We went to a market and bought a coconut which we split open and had some coconut water.

Aiden, Diana & Jason under banyan tree.

On our way to Liliuokalani Park, we drove on Banyan Drive and saw lots of huge banyan trees. I recalled how in the summer when we lived in Hawaii, The Hilo Community Players (performing since 1938) always had a play in the park. I especially remember the year they

did “Midsummer’s Dream” under the Banyan Trees and it really was a treat. We took the kids, too—no wonder our kids are theater crazy!

Going Back in Time— My trip to Hawaii in 2020 part 2

Snorkeling

We then went snorkeling just outside the City of Refuge. It was an extremely rocky bay, so Jason and I went to where there were not as many people.

However, we chose an area where the waves and rocks are more dangerous (which is why the people were not there). Jason was snorkeling and so I went in. It was wonderful! The fish were so beautiful and exotic. Gradually, I was swept into the area where the waves pushed me into the rocks. I tried to climb out but couldn’t get a handhold. 

Jason had lost a flipper, so he was trying to find it. Someone came out and found Jason’s flipper and helped us get out. I discovered that my arm, legs, and hand were covered in sea urchin spines; the urchins had been hidden in the rocks I’d tried to climb out. They weren’t large spines, but I had quite a lot. Also, my right hand especially had been torn up because of the sharpness of the rocks where I’d tried to climb out.

Later, I ended up in the urgent care clinic trying to get my injuries repaired and to get a tetanus shot. The main treatment for sea urchins’ spines is to try to pull out the larger ones, soak the smaller ones in vinegar (and local tradition suggests urine). But the snorkeling was worth it.

Monday

Saddle Road

Ed at Pohakoloa Army Training

 are The first thing we did Monday was to drive across the Saddle Road from Kona to Hilo.

When we lived there, it was a narrow switchback road going up from Hilo; now it is a lovely two land road with climbing lanes. We drove by on the South side of the road, Ed’s old work—Pohakoloa Army Training area and Bradshaw Aviation site. They looked the same: Quonset huts and lava.

Ed enjoyed his time there. He was often able to fly to Oahu, or watch the whales swimming. 

Pohakoloa Army Training Area 2020

 He was also able to help the National Guard when they searched for marijuana planting areas hidden in the jungle. 

A number of his staff at the Airfield were native Hawaiians and they often invited him to their real luaus or the first birthday parties of their children (they don't celebrate the birth of their children much, because traditionally most didn't live long. Therefore on their first birthday, they had a party that rivaled a wedding. 

Wilder Road

We got off the main highway on Kaumana Drive and turned onto Wilder Drive about two

miles from Hilo. There we saw the house that we lived in all those years ago. Considering it is the same age as the house I live in today, it was newly renovated.

Our old home on Wilder R

When we lived in our house, there were sacred “ti” plants on the four corners, to keep the evil spirits out.

Marc on a pile of dirt as we made our back lawn

We had a small, untidy hedge consisting of poinsettia plants facing the road. The front yard was predominantly black lava rocks with various piles of lava representing mountains, rivers, etc.

We had “hapu’u” or tree ferns were about the yard, with Ed planting a row of them on the right side of the house and various small climbing orchids growing on it.

Our Hilo house in 2020

The backyard was a shallow layer of dirt planted in grass, over lava. Frogs loved to hide in the pockets of water in the backyard, and I recall turning on the back-patio light one night and watched the frogs jump in the yard. It wasn’t an ideal backyard to play football in, so Ed ordered a huge pile of dirt, leveled it out planted grass that made a real back yard.

The inside of the house had a dining room, three bedrooms, a kitchen, and two bathrooms. The master bedroom had in addition to an attaching bathroom, a dressing room with a mirror and a seat to sit and do your makeup. I loved the dressing room and when Ed and I finally retired from the military and built our home in Centerville, Ed remodeled the house and made me a dressing room (with a seat) as part of my bedroom.

Marc's jungle--a natural playground

Our subdivision was the last built on the side of the mountain and there was only jungle across the street from us. Marc and the other kids used to play in the jungle. I would go and yell, and they would hear me and come out. They were very familiar with the dangers of the jungle (bobby-trapped marijuana fields) and knew not to go near them.

Hilo

Hilo, itself hadn’t changed much. Walking along downtown I was reminded that we were all in tsunami territory. There was a terrible tsunami in 1946 that totally wiped out Hilo and Lau pahoehoe (which we’ll go to next). One of the reasons for being hit so hard was the bay in Hilo. It channeled the wave to become narrower and higher. 

I recalled years ago when we lived in Hawaii, we were in the downtown bay area (which does not have a lot of buildings) and the tsunami-warning horns blared. I didn’t know what to do and the kids kept running around. A uniformed man came and told us that it was just a warning, but if it had been real, we’d all have died because we didn’t head for high land.

Aiden, Diana, and Jason under the Banyan Tree

We ate at a place called “Lucy’s Taqueria” and had Mexican food. I had the hugest burrito I’ve ever seen. We went to a market and bought a coconut which we split open and had some coconut water.

On our way to Liliuokalani Park, we drove on Banyan Drive and saw lots of huge banyan trees. I recalled how in the summer when we lived in Hawaii, The Hilo Community Players (performing since 1938) always had a play in the park. I especially remember the year they

did “Midsummer’s Dream” under the Banyan Trees and it really was a treat. We took the kids, too—no wonder our kids are theater crazy!

Going Back in Time— My trip to Hawaii in 2020

Forty years ago, we lived on the Big Island of Hawaii. We lived there for 2 ½ years, from February 1978 to August 1980. It was an adventure—the tropics, an unspoiled paradise, prejudice, and so much more. In February of 2020, I returned to the Big Island with my daughter Diana and her family. But more than that, I went back in time in memory to those idyllic days.

Hawaii, forty years ago, was very primitive. I recall coming off the plane and coming down steps—not even

a ramp or unto a gateway. That was my first taste of what it would be like. The Big Island back then was predominantly Japanese—not haole (Caucasian), with plenty of Polynesian, Portuguese and Chinese mixed in. I recall the local McDonald’s in Hilo always served Sushi on their menu along with hamburgers, fries, and milkshakes. This time I came off the plane, we had ramps/stairs leading down from the plane and then we walked to the gate.

The local school our children attended was a small school with only 12 to 15 children in each class. Many were Polynesians, but also many were Japanese.

I checked online about the Kaumana Elementary School today, and here are the statistics

Kaumana Elementary School Enrollment By Race The student body of Kaumana Elementary School in Hilo, Hawaii County, Hawaii is made up of 7 ethnicities. The largest ethnic group of the 264 students at Kaumana Elementary School is Pacific Islander. This is followed by Asian (13.6 %), White (8.7 %), Hispanic (6.1 %), Mixed Students of two or more ethnicities (4.2 %), Indian (1.5 %) and Black (0.8 %). Race      Number            % Indian    4           1.5 % Asian     36         13.6 % Hispanic           16          6.1 % Black     2           0.8 % White    23         8.7 % Pacific Islander             172       65.2 % Two or More Ethnicities           11          4.2 %

When we lived in Hilo, each classroom had a door to the outside and a deck with a water faucet right by the door. The kids usually wore flip-flops and you took them off, washed your feet and went into the classroom barefoot. You can see from the above photo; they’ve updated the school and each classroom does not have a door to the outside.

In 1978, the first Safeway in Hilo was opened and back then, it was not popular. Most people preferred their Mom & Pop bread stores, vegetable stores, fish & meat stores. Safeway did eventually become more popular, and today those downtown individual stores are now tourist boutiques.
Everywhere I saw louvered windows, although more and more had screens on the window. When we lived there, that was the main type of window you had.

Living in Hawaii was laid back in the past. And I discovered as we went everywhere—it is just as laid back today, with servers taking a long time to come, and sitting talking to each other rather than serve customers; hotels took a long time to answer your questions or supplies.

  

Sunday

Church

The first thing we did Sunday morning was attended Church; and yes, they had louvered windows on them!

The service was the same as years ago, and after the meeting ended, a young woman who was moving came up and the audience sang “Aloha Oe” (Farewell to Thee), with the words on the inside back cover of the hymn book. I almost cried because that’s what we always did when someone left the ward. (FYI: I’ve requested that “Aloha Oe” be sung at my funeral).

City of Refuge

One of my most favorite places we visited on the Big Island was the City of Refuge, Pu’uhonua o Honaunau,

on the Kona Coast. In the ancient Hawaiian times, there were “kapus,” forbidden rules; when a commoner casts his shadow on an Ali’i (chief), or a woman eats with a man, or someone catches a fish out of season—all these were “kapu” or forbidden. Break any of these (and more) and you face the ultimate punishment of death. However, if you could elude your pursuers on foot, get to the coast and swim to the City of Refuge, you could be resolved by a priest.

Also, during a war, the site was a sanctuary for children, elders and other noncombatants. Even defeated warriors could seek safety in the refuge, and after the battle ended, return home, whatever the outcome of the battle.

Also, next to the City of Refuge were the Royal Grounds, where Ali’i met with their advisers and priests. On the site are examples of a favorite game of the Hawaiians, played on a rock board with tiny black and white pebbles.

They also had an ancient game (konane) that was on a flat rock and had small indents on it to hold the white

and black rocks. Above you can see Athena and Diana playing the game in 1979 and a closer look at the game, today.

The Royal Grounds also had a special “chair” made of rock for the chief to sit and watch the water, and a special rock where the chief’s wife angered the king and she ran with her dog and hid under a rock. He didn’t notice her until her dog barked. It reminded me that even Hawaiian royalty had marital problems.

I was pleased that the City of Refuge hadn’t changed much during the years, as you can see from the pictures I’ve attached of then and now. The City of Refuge was a joy to walk around in. We saw “noni” (morindra citrifolia) fruit, which was a stable of Hawaiian food, but also made many medicines for them.

The hand-carved tikis represented the image of various Polynesian gods and personified the specific “mana” or power of that God. These tikis tried to please the gods and break good harvest and weather, as well as success and power during wars.